Day 4 & 5 – Nissan Bight and Fisherman’s River

hiking bottles, nalgene

David and my water bottles, prepped for the trip

On day 4 we left our comfortable cabin at Cluxewe to start on our 4 day backpacking adventure farther into Cape Scott Provincial Park. We started the day in Port Hardy at the visitor’s center for information on camping within the park and then headed out, again, on the long stretch of unpaved gravel highway back to where we were the day before.

Scarlet Ibis Restaurant in tiny Holberg, delicious fish ‘n chips

jack russel

One of two little dogs outside at the Scarlet Ibis

We did make one stop at the Scarlet Ibis, the only restaurant in the tiny logging town of Holberg. Marcy went in to ask for some butter so that we could cook and eat any edible mushrooms we’d find on the trail. We would stop back by here for a delicious meal of fresh fish and chips after the trip. The owner had the little two little dogs.

seasnails

Seasnails clinging to the rock at Fisherman’s Cove

sea urchins

More life hidden whin the rock at Fisherman’s Cove

shipwreck, fisherman's cove

Old remains of a shipwreck, Fisherman’s Cove

Although it was afternoon by the time we began our hike in, we continued for almost 10 miles to Nissan Bight, a beach on the north end. I was so exhausted! I thought a few miles would have been my limit, but I think excitement and adrenaline (plus a whole package of cliff shot blocks) kept me going the whole way. It was dark when we arrived, and sadly I don’t have any good pictures of it. Actually, we didn’t find it at first, and instead came out at Fisherman’s Cove, to the left of the bight. We came back there the next morning to closer examine the old ship wreck there and so Alex and David could fish. I spent my time exploring the rocks, and looking for shells along the water’s edge.

cape scott trail

An average example of an unimproved area

cape scott trail

A log bridge crossing

cape scott trail

A boardwalk through massive fallen trees

cape scott trail

An example of improvements, new bridge parallels the old on right

Let me just say that the trail north to Cape Scott was incredibly different than the well kept trail to San Josef Bay. I have never in my life encountered such a difficult, wet, muddy, slippery and varied trail. There are parts that are packed dirt, some with muddy pits, and then there are some parts with a boardwalk or other wooden slatted platforms to keep you out of the muck, at least for a short stretch. Luckily, David’s boy scout instincts kicked in at the start of the trail and he made me an awesome walking stick. Later he’d also make one for himself and Marcy (Alex declined). It was the BEST tool (after waterproof hiking boots) to have for balance or for checking the hidden and dangerous depths of the mud pits. One thing I can definitely say is that it was almost exciting, to see what the next part of the trail would hold. Luckily some ongoing improvements are evident and will likely continue, due to its increasing popularity. For us, we practically had the trail to ourselves.

cape scott trail

Bridge over Fisherman’s River, where we camped the second night

enormous slug

One of the many giant snails on the path

Instead of continuing on to Cape Scott on that second day of backpacking, we headed back on the trail to Fisherman’s River. We had learned from another hiker that there were two campsites behind the pit toilet there, even though it wasn’t marked on the map. The weather continued grey and rainy, but luckily the sites had raised wooden rainforest-style platforms. It didn’t include a bear cache for food though, so we had to rig it all up a tree. Every time David began to snore softly that night, I woke up thinking it was a bear :-).

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4 Responses to “Day 4 & 5 – Nissan Bight and Fisherman’s River”


  1. 1 puremotif September 14, 2007 at 6:02 am

    I wasn’t reading the titles of your posts, thinking, oh my gosh how many times does this girl go on vacation?

    Then I realized you just took amazing pics of the whole thing 🙂

    It looks like you had so much fun. And really great pics.

  2. 2 pricklypearbloom September 14, 2007 at 6:29 am

    You have so many outdoor adventures! Thanks for sharing!

  3. 3 paperseedblog September 14, 2007 at 10:40 am

    Hi puremotif and pricklypearbloom, We were on Vancouver Island for over a week and I’m recounting our trip. Only a few days left to go though!

  4. 4 denise September 17, 2007 at 4:21 pm

    Thaat looked like an amazzing vacation


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